Venice’s infamous gondolas all lined up and ready to sail through the canals

There are some places in this world that are so utterly flawless that they could lead you to believe that Mother Nature herself hand-selected them as her favorites. You know the ones…the destinations that exude perfection year-round, complete with ideal weather conditions day and night, week after week, 365 days a year. San Diego and Kauai are just two of those chosen lucky ones that I’ve been fortunate to visit– beautiful places in their own right with the added bonus of consistency mild temperatures that are always inviting, regardless of the time of year.

Sailing along Kauai’s stunning Na Pali Coast 

And then there are those other places. You know these places all too well, too. The slightest change in a week can be all the difference between bountiful sunshine and incessant monsoons; one month an oasis of placidity, while the next a bombardment of teeming tourists. The ones that ooze bliss, magic, and rainbow striped unicorns in April, yet ultimately transform into pure hell on Earth come August.

Perhaps no other destination in all of my travels better portrays this Jeckyl and Hyde concept  than Venice. The first time I visited Venice was spring of (gasp!) 1998 and I don’t think I could have loved a destination any more than I loved Venice at that very moment. Now, full disclaimer: at the young age of 20 years old, my countries visited list was considerably shorter than it is now, and beyond the Bahamas, Italy had been the only other country I had visited up to that point. I hadn’t even traveled to Mexico or Canada until the following year. I know! Considering that I have now visited nearly 50 countries, this blows my mind.

A view of St Mark’s Campanile, the bell tower of St. Mark’s Basilica 

At the age of 22, my limited exposure to the world slowly began to change. T and I took our first international trip together to the incredible city of Barcelona, and life as I knew it changed forever. I caught a serious case of the travel bug, and it’s safe to say that I’ve never fully recovered. It was there and then in Barcelona that I knew that I wanted to see as much of this wondrous world as possible and I’ve never looked back.

Sweeping views of Barcelona as seen from Guadi’s eccentric and effervescent Parc Guell

But I digress. Back to Venice. Springtime in Venice is captivating, romantic, whimsical. It’s pure euphoria. A city where water runs through its veins and influences nearly every aspect of its existence. As a twenty-year-old unseasoned traveler, I found myself completely enamored by Venice’s enticement and prominence.

Overlooking the City of Canals

So what makes Venice so unique, so absorbing? Comprised of 117 islands that are linked by 150 canals and brimming with nearly 400 bridges, there is no place quite like Venice.

The famed Pionte di Rialto is the oldest of four bridges that span the Grand Canal

But of course with beauty and reverence, undoubtedly comes the masses of people who also want to fall under Venice’s spell. When I returned to Venice many years later during the summer with T, the city was nearly unrecognizable. What seemed like thousands of tourists spilled out into the city’s pavements, bridges, and banks. So. Many. People. Everywhere. So overwhelming and crowded that it made my head spin and traveling soul long for the Venice I first experienced so many years before. It felt like it took ten times as long to get anywhere and our time here stretched out before us like a never-ending bad movie that you cannot wait to finish. And to add insult to injury, the stifling heat made sightseeing almost unbearable and certainly unenjoyable. One more thing about visiting Venice in the summer, the putrid smell that permeates the air is even more intensified. The people, the smells, the costs, the inevitable irritability — all of it is exasperated during the summertime.

T and I could not wait to get the hell out of Venice.

So unlike those near-perfect year-round destinations, when you visit Venice can be the difference between the ultimate dream trip that you never want to end and an utter nightmare you fight desperately to try to wake up from. I literally experienced two different cities–one of serenity and mystique, and another reminiscent of a mobbed amusement park overrun by an abundance of tourists.

But regardless of when you visit Venice, there’s one thing that’s irrefutable. Venice will seduce you with its enchantment, and will undoubtedly leaving you yearning for more.

Quintessential Venice

Piazzo San Marco

Venice’s largest square, Piazzo San Marco is often considered the heart of the city. The square is lined with many architectural wonders and historical and religious institutions including Saint Mark’s Basilica and Doge’s Palace. Both the Basilica and Palace are remarkable in their own right–aesthetically striking landmarks that beautifully portray Venetian art, culture, and history. We took a private tour of the Palace and were struck by its splendor and significance. Highly recommend spending a few hours here.

Saint Mark’s ornate and imposing exterior

The Palace’s intricate interior

While Piazzo San Marco is one of Venice’s most celebrated areas, it’s also one of the most congested places I’ve ever been. Summertime pretty much guarantees countless tourists (tell me if I already mentioned this?!), relentless and downright annoying souvenir vendors and oppressive heat. What was so lovely and enjoyable during my springtime trip was now daunting and disappointing. So much so that because T has only experienced Venice during the summer, it’s one of his least favorite places on Earth. Sadly, he doesn’t know the Venice that I once experienced.

Exploring the Canals

Those 150 canals I mentioned? They are the beating pulse of the city and are integrated in nearly every aspect of daily life here.The most famous of them all, the Grand Canal winds its way through the central neighborhoods of Venice from the Santa Lucia train station to Piazza San Marco, flowing under the iconic Rialto Bridge along the way, and serves as the picturesque main artery for transporting both people and goods around the city.

The Gondola

Yes, it’s touristy. And yes, I kind of think you have to do it. It’s somewhat of a rite of Venice passage. While a gondola ride is no doubt the epitome of touristy, it’s one of the best ways to explore the amazing canals of Venice, including the Grand Canal.  Venice is basically a network of mazes of alleyways and canals and can be somewhat challenging to navigate (it’s also part of the adventure–read below). Riding on a gondola offers an easy way to traverse the canals and provides an alternative perspective to exploring by foot.  A friend of mine recently explored the canals while on a stand-up paddle board, which sounds and looks awesome. If I ever return to Venice (although doubtful), I’m definitely paddle boarding my way through the canals. Whatever water sport activity you choose, don’t leave Venice without gliding along its infamous waterways.

Our gondolier

Go Ahead. Get Lost.

Part of the thrill of exploring Venice is getting lost in its labyrinth of cobblestone streets and discovering its hidden corners. Not only will you come across some amazing art museums, charming shops, and cozy restaurant gems, you might just manage to escape those crowds that I may have mentioned a few times. Yes, allowing yourself to get lost in an unfamiliar place can be disorienting and intimidating. But It can also be exhilarating and extremely rewarding. The pros here outweigh the cons if you ask me.

Forget the Diet and Eat Like a Boss. 

Restaurants line the numerous canals

It’s Italy. Do I even need to mention how incredible the food is here? I didn’t think so. But it is worth reminding you that the further you get away from the Piazzo and other central areas, the better chance you have of eating at a restaurant that is less catered towards tourists and more authentic and representative of the region.

Full and happy at a lovely canal-side trattoria 

Alas, we don’t always have a choice when we travel. As an educator, no-one knows this predicament more than me since the school calendar dictates every single one of our trips.  So while I know that summer is virtually the worst time to travel to Italy (and most of Europe), that’s when we often to go, especially if we want to go for longer than a week. In fact, we are currently considering a return trip to Italy next summer.

So perhaps this post should be titled Do As I Write, Not As I Do? If you happen to be one of the lucky ones who has flexibility and can travel to Venice outside of the summer, it might just make all the difference between an inevitable love affair with Venice, and a irreconcilable break-up.

Buon Viaggio, Amici!

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