I, JoAnn Hill, hereby promise that this post will not be one inane collection of cheesy puns and a sad, pathetic, and utterly lame attempt of playing on words for the sole reason of evoking a reaction from my readers.
So let me just get this out of the way immediately.
Fez is FEZMERIZING.
Now that wasn’t so bad, was it? I’ve said my peace and in return may have even caused you to smile. Or at the very least, rolled your eyes. In any event, l think we can all agree that it’s time to move on and get to the point here.
Fez is considered the religious, cultural, and handicraft epicenter of Morocco. A magical medina brimming with mazes, mosaics, mosques, and mystique, this ancient city is truly spellbinding.
We almost didn’t make it to Fez. Due to time constraints, our original itinerary didn’t include Fez, even though I had badly wanted to visit. A few days before our trip, our homebound flight was cancelled, causing us to add a few days to our trip. Talk about making lemonade. We added Casablanca and a day trip to Fez, elevating our already phenomenal trip to towering heights.
As the sayings goes, things typically happen for a reason. In retrospect, I can’t imagine any Moroccan itinerary that doesn’t include Fez–it is undoubtedly a highlight of any trip.
It’s worth noting that the old walled city of Fez is pretty compact and can be done in a short amount of time. Of course, you could spend days, weeks, even months here and be perfectly content. But if you’re short on time like we were, then one [jam-packed] day can certainly suffice.
Below is the best of the best and how to make the most of your time in fascinating Fez.
A View to Kill
The second-largest city in Morocco sits in a valley between the Rif and the Atlas Mountains. Looking out over the sweeping views of Fez from one of its many hilltops and/or rooftops is a spectacular way to orient yourself to the city. It also allows you to find a few moments of stillness and serenity before entering the incessantly busy and overwhelming medina.
The Blue Gate of Fez [Bab Bou Jeloud]
This marvelously ornate city gate serves as the main entrance into the Fez medina. While the blue swirls-and-stars-patterned tiles adorn the gate’s side that welcomes individuals, its opposing side switches to a striking green hue. Regardless of the side you’re facing, the bustling entryway to the historic area’s 9,500 streets and alleyways serves as brilliant welcoming into the ancient walled city.
Get Lost in the Medina [Fez el Bali]
Remember those 9,500 streets and alleyways mentioned above? That number is real, people. Fez el Bali, the oldest walled part of Fez, is comprised of a staggering amount of streets and alleys that create an extremely labyrinthine and convoluted maze that is nearly impossible to navigate on your own [especially if you happen to be directionally-challenged like me]. Our local guide led us throughout the narrow winding streets with ease and care. For someone whose sense of direction is downright abysmal, his expertise and guidance were greatly appreciated [and very much needed!].
It’s nearly impossible to not be captivated by the medina’s old-world allure. Being able to preserve so much of its history and roots is nothing short of impressive. It’s no wonder it’s earned the honor of being recognized as a UNESCO World Heritage Site.
Zaouia Moulay Idriss II
Regarded as one of the medina’s holiest shrines, Zaouia Moulay Idriss II pays homage to the founder and ruler of Fez of the early 800s. That’s right, all–this city is ANCIENT. The intricately-designed shrine is considered to bring visiting Muslims good fortune, and many women believe it will help with their fertility. Non-Muslims will need to be content with simply glimpsing into part of the remarkable interior and tomb from the entrance. As with most mosques and shrines in Morocco, non-Muslims are not permitted to enter inside.
Bou Inania Madrasa
Bou Inania Medersa is a former school complex complete with a mosque, residences and classrooms. It is one of the few Islamic structures open to tourists. Its exquisite details of art and architecture is a brilliant feast for the eyes.
Kairaouine Mosque & Univerisity
The world’s oldest university is here in Fez, and it was found by a woman no less! Yet another incredible example of mind-blowing preservation of history, culture, and beauty.
Artisanal Amazingness
While artisanal has become somewhat of an ubiquitous term, perhaps no other place on the planet is more deserving and fitting than the souks and medinas of Fez. In practically every corner and alleyway of the medina you’ll likely find a potter, weaver, painter, and/or sculptor meticulously crafting some elaborately-designed piece of craftwork. The attention to detail, vibrancy of colors, and unique aesthetics that is so pervasive throughout not only Fez, but the entire country, is nothing short of amazing.
The medina is believed to be the world’s largest car-free city area; donkeys and mules are piled high with goods, as merchants are transporting and selling local goods, food, and services.
The Leather Tanneries of Fez
You know the ones. The leather tanneries of Fez have become somewhat of a famous institution of Fez, and certainly one of the most anticipated stops of our itinerary. Chouara Tannery, one of the three tanneries in Fez, is the largest one and dates back to the 11th century.
In order to get to the highly sought-after coveted view of the tanneries, you have to enter one of the many leather stores surrounding them. There are large viewing terraces that look down onto the pits; unfortunately there’s no way to avoid passing through the cavernous shops brimming with leather items of every size, shape and color. While the views of the infamous tanneries are free, like most things in this world, the desire to see them does come with a price. Be prepared to be guided through the store by aggressive shopkeepers who are eager to sell you that oh-so-perfect belt, purse, or jacket that would look oh-so-amazing on you.
Merenid Tombs
Perched upon a hill above Fez, the crumbling ruins of Merenid Tombs and surrounding environs offer sweeping vistas of the city and countryside. The ancient tombs date back through the 13th to 15th centuries and the picturesque hillside provides a welcomed reprieve from the medina’s ceaseless commotion. The beautiful lush region reminds visitors that Morocco is so much more than its expansive arid desert and chaotic cities [but they’re pretty amazing, too].
The Royal Palace of Fez [Dar el Makhzen]
You just might feel like royalty at this opulent palace, but sadly, you’ll only get to feel like that way from the outside. The 17th century palace is home to Mohammed VI of Morocco, whenever he’s in the city.
Bottom Line:
Fez is a feast for the senses that boasts a unique and engrossing identity. It’s certainly one of the most fascinating and exotic locales that we’ve ever visited. Whether you have a limited or indefinite amount of time, don’t leave Morocco without making your way to Fez.
Cheers to cancelled flights and last-minute plans!
If You Go
We used the company Viator to take an all-day private city tour of Fez. We have used Viator in nearly every corner of the world: from a bike tour through Amsterdam, to snorkeling in Maui, to charming medieval towns in Portugal, to air-boating in the Everglades, we have used Viator numerous times and have never been disappointed. If you’re looking for a trusted-and-true tour company both domestically and internationally, Viator is a great option.
This particular tour cost about $200 USD/person. It was on the more expensive side, but it was a private 12-hour tour that included a private driver, lunch, entrance to all sites, and a private guide. It’s also worth noting that Fez is more than two hours away from Casablanca by car. So in our opinion, money well spent and totally worth it.
Happy Traveling, All!
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