In my Kauai blog post, I wrote that we weren’t expecting to love Hawaii as much as we did.
I know. I know.
What’s not to love about Hawaii? It’s true. There’s not much here to not fall in love with [except the exorbitant prices and super long flight, that is]. But other than the ridiculously high costs and excessive flight time, Hawaii is pretty close to perfection: ideal year-round temperate temperatures, dramatic landscapes and pristine beaches, an abundance of active pursuits, and raw natural splendor around every corner.
Again, you may be asking yourselves, what’s not to love?!
Well, if you’ve read any of my previous blog posts, then you know that beach destinations are rarely on the top of our list. Of course, we like to unwind and relax as much as other travelers [T, more than me], but we typically gravitate towards more culture, exotic, and historical places.
While I wouldn’t exactly classify Hawaii under any of the three above categories, I would say it’s pretty damn extraordinary. We were delightfully surprised and ultimately swept away by its unparalleled beauty, laid-back vibe, and utter magnificence.
Maui couldn’t be more different than Kauai. Not better, not worse, just different. In terms of size, it’s much larger than Kauai, resulting in a plethora of more activities, restaurants, accommodations, beaches, and well pretty much anything else you can think of. With that, of course, comes more commercialism. While driving the island and past shopping centers, chain restaurants, and Starbucks, there were a number of times that felt like we could have been anywhere in America [albeit, somewhere warm and tropical, but still]. This is not necessarily a dig on Maui, as there is a sense of comfort and familiarity that comes along with conveniences and having everything you need at your fingertips. Make no mistake, we loved Maui. But if given a choice, we prefer Kauai’s off-the-grid vibe, essentially void of pervasive strip malls and chain eateries.
At the same time, it’s very easy to avoid the shopping centers and Starbucks [if you want, of course–we did, but that’s us–no judgement here]. There are still a wide array of local restaurants, coffee shops, food trucks, and anything else you can think of that makes Hawaii so undeniably unique and special.
Below outlines 5 glorious days on the stunning island of Maui, a delicious haven for nature lovers, adventure enthusiasts, and anyone who continues to be in awe of this wondrous world we live in.
The Road to Hana
I’m not sure I can possibly write anything about the Road to Hana that hasn’t already been written and I’m definitely about the 12,087,855,544th person to proclaim just how breathtaking this winding road really is. This is easily one of the most beautiful drives we’ve ever been on.
We loved the Road to Hana so much that I recently ranked it #23 on my all-time 50 travel experiences list, the highest ranked U.S. entry of the list.
Expect to allocate an entire day here and start your day early. It’s important to note that we did not stop at every single stop. Unless you have multiple days or you are staying in Hana or somewhere else along the road, it’s nearly impossible to stop everywhere. We did stop at almost all of the important sites, and at some of the more off-the-beaten-track sites. Ask your hotel/resort for a Road to Hana map and guide and prioritize the stops you want to make prior to your drive.
First Stop: Paia
Paia is the last town before heading clockwise on the Road to Hana. We fueled up on coffee and a delicious healthy breakfast at Paia Bay Coffee & Bar, an adorable and very Hawaiian-looking- spot in town. As I previously mentioned, plan on starting your day early. From our resort in Wailea, Paia was about a 35 minute drive, so plan accordingly.
Travel Tips: A few things I cannot stress enough: Before embarking on your Road to Hana adventure, make sure your gas tank is full, your belly is full, and your bladder is empty. There aren’t a ton of places to stop along the way for food and/or restroom breaks. Also, because the majority of the road is incredibly narrow and windy, expect to drive between 15-20 mph throughout long stretches of your drive. One more thing, we made sure to head back before it got dark. The road isn’t well-lit, and as you venture into the 40+ mile markers, the road becomes even more windy and more treacherous. We chose to turn around at 6:00 pm so that we’d be back in Wailea by 8:00-8:30pm. We didn’t want to still be on the road when it was dark. All important factors to consider.
Twin Falls: Mile Marker 2
Twin Falls is the first falls and stop along the Road to Hana and offers easy access to visitors. The hike to the falls is picturesque and beautiful. A lovely introduction to all of the magical sights in store!
HO-OKIPA LOOKOUT: MILE MARKER 9
A great spot to stop and marvel at piercing blue waters, dramatic vistas, and world-class surfers.
Waikamoi Nature Trail: Mile Marker 9.5
The trail here is short [about a mile] and fairly easy to navigate. It’s somewhat of a modest stop along the road and it’s definitely not as impressive as many of the other incredible spots along the way. At the same time, Waikamoi Nature Trail is a nice spot to stop for a bit to explore and be surrounded by greenery, sunshine, and a delightful cascading waterfall.
GARDEN OF EDEN ARBORETUM: MILE MARKER 10
Keopuka Rock: the famous site feature in Jurassic Park
The only, and I mean only, drawback to stopping at the Garden of Eden Arboretum is that you have to pay an entrance fee, but I promise you the $15 fee is more than worth it. The grounds are immaculately kept and the arboretum’s 26 acres of lush gardens and trails offer some of the most breathtaking views of anywhere we saw along the Road to Hana.
This incredible wonderland is brimming with unique and vibrant flowers, rare trees, and bamboo.
Nearly every corner of the arboretum offers stunning vistas, including the tucked-away Puohokamoa Falls.
Highly recommend spending some time here. I promise you won’t be disappointed!
Honomanu Bay: Mile Marker 14
One of several lookout spots to pull over and marvel while encompassed by breathtaking views. Picture perfect is an understatement.
Ching’s pond: Mile Marker 16.8
A beautiful crystal-clear pool that’s offers a refreshing reprieve from the hot glaring sun and the twisting-and-turning road. Worth a stop and a soak.
Halfway to Hana Stand: Mile marker 17
Because snacks. There aren’t a ton of spots to purchase food or drinks along the drive, so when you see a roadside stand, stop. Banana bread is kinda a thing along the Road to Hana, and the loaf we bought here was pretty freaking delicious. As was the shaved ice [love me some shaved ice]. Oh, there are chips and candy bars, and all of the other guilty junk food you crave and ultimately need. Buy it all and enjoy it. It’s not like you need to be in a bathing suit or anything.
Oh wait.
Upper Waikani Falls: Mile Marker 19
Also known as the Three Bears, Upper Waikani Falls are yet another set of gorgeous waterfalls situated right off the road. Parking here is super challenging, so we didn’t spend a lot of time here, just enough to snap a few photos and thank Mother Nature for her abundant gifts.
Pua’A Ka’a State Wayside: Mile marker 22.5
This stop kind of has all of things: a small waterfall with a plunge pool, picnic tables, and a RESTROOM! Don’t sleep on the restroom, folks. Bathrooms along the road are pure gold.
Trust me.
I can’t say that this is the most impressive stop along the road; it’s not, not by any stretch of the imagination. But as I said, it has all of the things. Most importantly, a bathroom 🙂
HANAWI FALLS: MILE MARKER 24
More waterfalls? Yes, please. Located right after mile marker 24, Hanawi Falls was one of our favorite stops along our drive. One of the best places to view all of its splendor is right off of Hanawi Stream’s bridge. There are several narrow pull-offs before and after the bridge.
Nahiku Market: MILE MARKER 28
A great roadside marketplace to stop for a quick bite [and another restroom break!] comprised of a number of vendors and street-hawkers. Choose from a variety of food and drink options: Thai, Polynesian, tacos, smoothies, sorbet, and more. There are picnic tables to eat at, as well as local artwork and souvenirs to peruse and purchase.
hana town: Mile Marker 34
Often regarded as a sleepy waterside town, Hana is a tranquil and simple place. It’s been said that much hasn’t change in Hana over the past several centuries. While our stop here was brief, we’ll venture to agree. Locals recognize Hana as a place for the Gods and a destination of deep roots and history.
Travel Tip: While there isn’t a whole lot to do here, Hana is a great place to refuel your car.
wailula falls: MILE MARKER 45
The last marker spot we stopped at before turning back to make the trek pack to Wailea. The towering Wailua Falls cascading in an endless green abyss was the perfect ending to an absolutely perfect drive and day.
Molokini Sail and Snorkel
I bet you were starting to think that the Road to Hana was the only thing we did in Maui.
HA! Think again…
Snorkeling in Molokini Crater is undoubtedly one of the highlights of visiting Maui. The crescent-shaped submerged volcano off Maui’s southern coastline boasts over 250 species of fish inhabiting an extensive reef.
The water is exceptionally clear [and a bit cold–so I highly recommend renting a wet suit–it was a game-changer] and swimming with the schools of tropical fish is pure euphoric bliss.
Sailing and snorkeling combined with suntanning and sipping on cocktails is my ideal of a perfect day. The sweeping views of Haleakala Volcano set just off the back of the boat is of course an added bonus.
There are a number of tour outfitters to choose from. Prior to our trip, we booked online with our trusted and true tour operator of choice, Viator. Click here to check out the tour we chose.
Good Times Come in Waves
There is no shortage of incredible beaches on the island of Maui. Wailea Beach is extremely popular, and rightfully so. Like most of the beaches on Maui, it’s pretty spectacular.
Makena Beach State Park is a perennial favorite among locals and tourists alike.
There are a few black sand beaches on the island. The most popular one is the one at Wainapanapa State Park. Oneuli Black Sand Beach is part of Makena State Park and is the closest black sand beach to where we stayed in Wailea. It’s not amazing by any means, but if you’re in the area, it’s worth stopping by to explore.
Just south of Wailea is Maluaka Beach, dubbed as Turtle Town, where you are pretty much guaranteed to see numerous turtles oh-so-slowly amble out of the water before making their way to their resting spot on the sandy beach. We easily saw over a dozen turtles here–such an awesome sighting!
And it’s pretty safe to say that you’ll catch jaw-dropping sunsets on any beach across the island.
HAWAIIAN LUAU
A Hawaiian luau: one of the most overrated and disappointed cultural events we’ve ever experienced. And I’m using the word cultural very loosely. Inauthentic, gimmicky, and let’s not forget to mention, ridiculously expensive, this poor depiction of Polynesian culture is not only lame, it’s insulting and disrespectful. And for the record, we supposedly went to the best, oldest, and most authentic in Maui.
But I get it. When you go to Hawaii, it’s sort of a rite of passage, if you will. Believe me, that’s why we went, too. But if you want my advice, then here it is: save your money, restore your dignity, and skip the luau.
Where to Eat
Mama’s fish House
I wouldn’t say that Maui is necessarily a dining destination. Of course, there are an abundance of eateries and we ate well throughout our entire time on the island. But let’s be honest, most people aren’t necessarily making the trek to Hawaii for the food.
The one exception is the infamous Mama’s Fish House, easily our best meal of our entire Hawaiian trip. After The Road to Hana, this highly sought-after restaurant was probably the number one recommendation we received from friends and others. Located along the North Shore, this family-run restaurant has become an institution on the island. The space is large and festive, the service is affable and attentive, and the fish is fresh and delicious.
I would be lying if I told you I remember what we ate. All I remember is that we ordered a lot of food, and every last morsel was divine. I made our reservation 6 months in advance–highly recommend making yours as far in advance as possible–Mama’s is incredibly popular and fills up quickly.
Humuhumunukunukuapua’A
This high-end and super easy to spell and pronounce beachfront eatery is located at the Grand Wailea Resort. We enjoyed a lovely dinner noshing on Polynesian fare and locally-caught fish in a heavenly setting.
Restaurant at Hotel Wailea
This swanky and posh restaurant is inside of the Hotel Wailea, Relais & Châteaux and it is fantastic. We dined here after our Road to Hana excursion [dressed in workout attire and pretty filthy after hours of hiking, swimming, and driving]. Embarrassed by our attire and overall appearance, we asked to be seated in the corner, trying our best to hide. A restaurant of this stature could have easily turned us away [although we were guests here, so that certainly counted for something] and/or turned their noses up at us. I should add that a couple sitting near us were wearing a suit and gown–that’s right. And you thought the Hills got dressed up.
Instead, we were treated like precious gold; our server couldn’t have been more understanding and accommodating. Our dinner was fabulous and the space is enchanting. Highly recommend.
No photos to protect the adventurous [and grimy] travelers.
Food Trucks
As much as we love the fancy upscale restaurants, and boy, we really do, we also love the street-side vendors and food trucks that have become ubiquitous to Hawaii. We didn’t see nearly as many as we did in Kauai, but they definitely are part of Maui’s culture.
Where We Stayed
Hotel Wailea, Relais & Châteaux
We stayed at the luxurious and indulgent Hotel Wailea, Relais Chateaux, an adults-only resort. Everything about our stay was outstanding. The establishment and lush grounds were pristine and impeccable, our room was spacious and tastefully decorated, the location is ideal, and the restaurants and pool area were immaculate.
Did I mention that this is an adults-only resort? As in no-children splashing around, cannonballing into the pool, and screaming while you’re trying to read with a cocktail in hand? Pure utter bliss.
#sorrynotsorry #thisthirdgradeteacherdeservesabreakinthesummer
Bottom Line
If you’re looking for an island that satiates your adventurous appetite, while simultaneously satisfying your need to relax and unwind while enveloped in staggering beauty, then Maui may just be the spellbinding oasis you’ve been dreaming of.
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