One of the hottest travel destinations in all of Latin America, it’s easy to see why Costa Rica has been drawing an influx of travelers for well over a decade now. Raw and rugged rainforests, stunning white sand beaches, and an equally diverse topography and wildlife across the country are just the beginning here of what entices tourists to flock here year after year.
Over recent years, the number of visitors traveling to Costa Rica has surged, resulting in a boom in tourism and expansion in construction and real estate development. Of course, like most things, there are advantages and disadvantages whenever this occurs.
The first time we traveled to Costa Rica was in 2005 for our destination wedding and honeymoon. Many roads were still dirt roads and difficult to traverse, infrastructure was inadequate, and some airports were dilapidated and aligned with some of the worst third world airports we have visited in the past.
Honeymoon Bliss
Fast forward to our second trip to Costa Rica in 2013 and much of the Costa Rica we once knew was very different. Road conditions had vastly improved, and a nearly brand-new Liberia airport that serves as the gateway to Guanacaste was completely renovated, modernized, and (gasp) air-conditioned!
And yet.
Development and tourism have also resulted in more chains, fast food spots, and strip malls. I will never forget the time T and I were walking through the laid-back surfer town of Tamarindo (see below), which didn’t have one chain restaurant at the time, and seeing a sign that read, Burger King: Coming Soon. Then and there we knew that big change was on its way–and not all for the better.
But no matter when you visit Costa Rica, there is no denying that you will be greeted by welcoming people, vibrant culture, rich natural wonders, and endless adventure.
Below are the highlights from our two trips to Costa Rica.
Arenal Volcano
One of the most popular destinations in the country, Arenal Volcano is pretty much a must-visit on any Costa Rica itinerary. The active volcano and surrounding rainforest is a nature lover’s dream. There are tons of activities and tours available here, making it an ideal location for active and outdoor lovers alike. We opted for hiking and a horseback riding/zip lining tour combination.
While we loved all of the active pursuits (although zip lining is definitely not my favorite thing in the world), our favorite aspect of the area was Tabacon Thermal Resort. Nestled in the tropical rainforest at the base of the volcano lies this magical oasis of healing mineral hot springs, cascading waterfalls, placid pools, and wait for it…a wet bar. We loved it here so much that we returned for a second night. The grounds are gorgeous and expansive, so it doesn’t feel crowded or overrun by tourists. There are numerous small pools and streams to lounge in and soak those hiking-induced aches and pains away. Have I mentioned they have a swim-up bar?
We stayed at Montana de Fuego, an ecolodge set on a stunning natural reserve. Our adorable bungalow opened out to beautiful views of the volcano and Arenal River Canyon. This is a great option for a moderately priced accommodation in an incredible location.
The Osa Peninsula & Lapa Rios Ecolodge
To this day, this is one of the most amazing places we’ve ever stayed. Set among a lush and remote private reserve, Lapa Rios is a phenomenal ecolodge that is unlike anywhere we’ve ever stayed. It’s not the easiest place to get to — it involves a 50 minute flight aboard a puddle jumper from San Jose to Puerto Jimenez, and then a 45 minute shuttle drive — but raw and natural rain forests typically never are.
The prettiest plane around.
Perched atop the verdant jungle, each open-air bungalow offers ocean views, jaw-dropping sunrises and sunsets, close encounters to wildlife, and environmentally-conscious amenities. There’s something extra amazing about waking up to the sounds of the forest and rhythmic patterns of the waves crashing onto the shore.
Our outdoor shower & a little eye candy, just cuz.
Full transparency, Lapa Rios is not exactly what you would consider a budget-friendly accommodation. Bungalows start at about $800/night. Yes, it’s really expensive. But everything, and I mean everything, is included. Three daily meals (and I promise there are none of those all-inclusive mass produced gross buffets here–every meal here was exquisite and strictly centered around fresh, local and seasonal ingredients), all activities and tours, and transfers to and from the airport. And remember, we were on our honeymoon–so splurging is pretty much par for the course.
There is no shortage of tours and activities that Lapa Rios offers and we took advantage of many of them. Here is a list of our favorites:
Wild Waterfall Hike: A challenging and beautiful hike through the diverse rainforest which ultimately leads to your final destination, pristine flowing waterfalls. Plunging into the cool refreshing water was a much deserved and needed reward after a hot and arduous trek.
Night Walk: Disclaimer: this tour is a little daunting at first. It’s not that it’s physically strenuous by any means, it’s that you’re wandering through the rain forest in pitch dark with only a flashlight and the leading voice of your tour guide. Once you get used to it, it’s pretty awesome, and it turned out to be one of my favorite activities of the entire trip. You see nocturnal creatures that you wouldn’t see otherwise, including frogs, bats, and insects. Experiencing the rainforest at night is a truly unique and memorable experience.
Local Medicine Tour: Admittedly, this is not the type of tour I would typically gravitate toward, but it ended up being truly fascinating and very informative. We learned about the traditional uses of various medicinal plants, trees, and seeds found in the property’s extensive gardens and surrounding rainforest, as well as their history and impact on indigenous tribes, farmers, and residents.
Surfing Lesson: So. Much. Fun. T and I took a private surf lesson and it was easily one of my favorite moments of the trip. It didn’t hurt that I was SO MUCH BETTER than T. Like you can’t even compare. Like a master vs. student kind of thing. Like he wishes he was half as good as I was. Nope, not competitive at all.
Of course, you don’t have to travel all the way to the Osa Peninsula to go surfing. Whether you’re an avid surfer or a novice, Costa Rica is an amazing place to get your surfer dude vibe on and it’s often regarded as one of the best surfing destinations in the world.
Note: Surfing lessons are offered through an external outfitter and are not included in Lapa Rios’ all-inclusive rate. But so so worth the extra money.
Guanacaste: Exploring the Beach Towns
Nicknamed the Golden Coast of Costa Rica, Guanacaste is a province in northwestern Costa Rica that borders the Pacific coast. The biggest draws here are the endless stretches of beautiful beaches and low-key beach towns. Playa Tamarindo and Playa Langosta are both fabulous beaches and the laid-back surfer town of Tamarindo is so inviting, boasting lively restaurant and bar scenes, quirky and local artisan shops, and most importantly, the locale for our wedding! We fell in love with this chill little surfing village and couldn’t have asked for a better setting for our destination wedding.
You didn’t really think that I would pass up this opportunity to include this epic photo, did you?
Of course, like so many other amazing places around the world, with great beauty and allure comes even greater development and visitors. What was once a charming, off-the-beaten-track surfer town is now a booming beach town inundated with restaurant chains, traffic, and hotels. Tamarindo might possibly be one of the best reflections of a booming and emerging nation–but some say it has gone a bit too far.
Literally meaning beautiful beach, Playa Hermosa is another standout beach that is a little less than a 90 minute drive north of Tamarindo. We visited Playa Hermosa on our second trip to Costa Rica, staying at a good friend of ours’ family vacation home. This area was definitely quieter and less busier than Tamarindo. We loved that most people on and around the beach were local residents, as opposed to tourists.
Eye Candy: Round 2
Sun, sand and sips with our friend Lauren at Aqua Sport, a fun beachfront bar and restaurant.
Cute and casual beach bars and shacks dot the area.
We enjoyed a wonderful New Year’s Eve dinner at Ginger, a trendy and eclectic restaurant serving up global tapas. The unique design of the restaurant is awesome — the entire restaurant is open air and perched upon a raised deck under towering trees.
If you’re looking for beachfront dining in Hermosa, then Roberto’s Restaurant is a great spot for local fare and ocean views.
Of course, restaurants aren’t the only places to experience killer views–Costa Rica is oozing of phenomenal vistas and sensational sunsets.
Views for days
Those Costa Rican sunsets though.
Who knows what the next few decades will bring to Costa Rica? Regardless of the changes that will inevitably continue to impact this beautiful nation, you are pretty much guaranteed an experience filled with adventure, marvel and pura vida.
No longer our honeymoon. But still a hell of a lot of amor.
Happy Traveling, All!
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