‘Sunset is still my favorite color, and rainbow is second.’ ― Mattie Stepanek
Within minutes of arriving in San Juan del Sur, I felt a sense of familiarity, almost like I’d been here before. And in some cases I had. Reminiscent of our time in Tamarindo, Costa Rica, San Juan del Sur is the cool, hip kid of Nicaragua. It’s where surfers come to catch their next wave, backpackers linger at cool and quirky coffee shops, partiers come to kick back, dreamers come to catch sunsets, and beachgoers come to bask in the sunshine.
To read about our two trips to Costa Rica, click here.
We arrived in the laid-back beach town of San Juan del Sur after spending two days in Granada, a lively colonial city characterized by cobble-stoned streets, Spanish-style architecture, and a myriad of colorful and well-preserved buildings. Our hotel in Granada arranged a private car service to make the 2.5-3 hour journey to San Juan del Sur.
Granada’s rich palette of vivid hues radiate throughout the city.
To read about our time in lovely Granada, click here.
We spent four rejuvenating days in San Juan del Sur, relishing in lazy, sunbaked days enhanced by warm ocean breezes and fiery sunsets. This isn’t where you go with an agenda or even a detailed itinerary. No, this particular funky little beach town tucked along the Pacific’s southern coast is where you come to rewaken your senses and rekindle your energy. Marvel at its vibrant colors, feel the sand between your toes and the sun’s warmth upon your face, and revel in its widespread charm and beauty.
Below are our favorite things to do in San Juan del Sur.
Seas The Day & Take To The Beach
‘Bursts of gold on lavender melting into saffron. It’s the time of day when the sky looks like it has been spray-painted by a graffiti artist.’ ― Mia Kirshner
Playa San Juan del Sur
Without a doubt, the primary draw of San Juan del Sur is its wide array of spectacular beaches just outside of town. While Playa San Juan del Sur is certainly beautiful and the most popular, it’s not the best that Nicaragua has to offer. It is the most conveniently located, however, and its sunsets are absolutely incredible–reason enough alone to visit.
There are a number of beachfront restaurants here to enjoy a casual lunch and evening drinks.
Thatched palm-roofed eateries line the beachfront of Playa San Juan del Sur
Playa Hermosa
Proof that not all beaches are created equally. Dare I say that one of the best beaches we’ve ever visited in all of our travels is Nicaragua’s Playa Hermosa? The beach is fairly remote (about a 30 minute drive from town) and is accessed by a dirt road, or muddy one, depending on the season. There’s a minimal entrance fee since it’s a private beach, but rest assured, the small fee is totally worth it.
Because it’s somewhat hidden away, this ultra laid-back beach isn’t completely overrun by people (here’s to hoping it stays that way!). The gorgeous wide-open beach is huge, extending along Nicaragua’s southern coastline. Playa Hermosa is probably the widest beach we’ve ever been to–it’s a perfect spot to go for a run. And when I say ‘go for a run’, I really mean T went for a run while I spent the afternoon worshipping the sun and sipping on margaritas.
So you see, there’s really something here for everyone.
While you won’t find much on Playa Hermosa (and that’s exactly why it’s so amazing) you will find a restaurant, bar, and countless palapas (thatched-roof open structures) and seating areas up and down the beach. Comfortable hammocks, wooden swings, and picnic tables make for a nice place to hang out for the day.
Playa Hermosa Ecolodge: a great seaside spot for snacks, drinks, and doing absolutely nothing.
Fun fact: the first season of Survivor was filmed in Playa Hermosa.
Hike to Jesus
One of the world’s largest Jesus statues is perched atop a hill overlooking San Juan del Sur. Mirador del Cristo de la Misericordia, commonly known as the Jesus Statue, is colossal, standing 15 meters high in addition to its 9-meter pedestal, for a total of 24 meters.
To access the steep road leading up to the statue you have two options: you can either walk along the beach and climb a set of stairs at the far end or you can go through the neighborhood below, following the signs that read “Jesus de la Divina Misericordia”.
Beginning the ascent to meet Jesus.
The hike up to the statue takes about an hour or so. It is a bit of a taxing trek, but nothing too strenuous. Highly recommend venturing out on the early side to avoid the strong hot sun.
While the climb may be steep, the views that await are nothing short of spectacular, making it more than worth it!
Views along the hike
Sweeping views of the crescent-shaped harbor and bay
To read more about our Coming to Jesus Moments, check out my Brazil blog post.
Live & Travel in Color
Similar to Granada, I fell in love with the vivid colors of San Juan del Sur. Wandering around this colorful town is like being enveloped in a lustrous rainbow — I mean, how can your heart not be illuminated by so much dazzling brightness and radiant joy?
Namaste in Nicaragua
If there’s a yoga studio to be found, chances are you’ll find me there. I love exploring new yoga studios during my travels and couldn’t have asked for a better place to practice in Nicaragua than Zen Yoga.
The building’s open-air concept with views of surrounding rooftops and hills, along with its natural wood tones, create a calming and welcoming space. Whether you are a long-time practitioner or a novice, you’re sure to find a wonderful class that fits your needs.
The attached juice bar is an added bonus!
Eat Well
San Juan del Sur is filled with restaurants that focus on local as well as international and eclectic cuisine, (something that you don’t typically find when traveling throughout Central America). You’ll also find an abundance of healthy and vegan fare to boot!
Below are some of our favorites in and around town.
Buddha’s Garden: Hooray for raw (and delicious!) vegan food! The best spot in town for healthy, organic and local fare.
El Gato Negro: A long-time running joke between me and T during our travels: we’ll come across a restaurant, cafe, yoga studio, bed and breakfast, you name it, and I’ll turn to him and say, ‘If I were to ever own a _______, this is exactly what I’d own.’ What can I say? I grew up in a family of small business owners, and I’ve always loved the idea of continuing that tradition. Well, El Gato Negro, an outstanding and eclectic café & bookstore, wins the If I were ever to own… Nicaragua award. Delicious organic food and tasty smoothies served in a laid-back and quirky atmosphere. Oh, and as an added bonus, they have free WiFi, too!
Open until mid-afternoon only.
El Timon: Probably the most popular restaurant on the beach and in town. We enjoyed a few lunches at this busy oceanfront restaurant.
Restaurante Vivian: Great local food, especially their fresh seafood, served in a fantastic setting along the beach.
Simon Says: Runner-up on my If I Were Ever To Own… list. This no-frills, easy-going chill spot serves up delicious and healthy fare, including smoothies, breakfasts, salads and sandwiches.
The garden in the back provides a lovely little oasis to relax and enjoy a light meal.
Where to Stay
Las Casa’s de Congo Hills
We stayed in a delightful home in the Congo Hills complex, about three miles outside of San Juan del Sur.
Pros: The property is beautiful, the owners were extremely kind and helpful in arranging taxis, etc., and it was much more affordable than many accommodations in and closer to town, especially since we were there over New Year’s, the height of high season.
Cons: We pretty much had to take a taxi everywhere. Of course, once we were in town, we stayed in town, trying to limit the back-and-forth. And while taxis were cheap and easily summoned by our hosts, we typically prefer the convenience of walking to and from places.
Perhaps the best part of staying at Congo Hills was our unexpected so-much-fun New Year’s Eve celebration with this crew:
New Year’s Eve shenanigans: Dave & Terrina (owners), and Beth and Alison
Fun fact: In case you haven’t heard, it really is a small world. Exactly one year later, we ran into Beth, who lives in Canada, in Cabo San Lucas! I mean, what are the chances?!
And you know you want to read all about our awesome Cabo adventure.
Go ahead and click here.
While Nicaragua may not be on everyone’s travel radar, it really should be. Similar to Costa Rica and many other Central American nations, it’s brimming of quaint colonial cities, stunning natural beauty, lush jungles, beautiful beaches, and towering volcanoes.
San Juan del Sur is just one of the country’s many extraordinary places that will surely captivate your wanderlusting heart and nourish your good-vibes-only soul.
One last thing. Whether you’re an avid surfer and/or have never surfed a day in your life, surfing in San Juan del Sur is almost a rite of passage here. We chose not to take a lesson since we had already done it in Costa Rica, but you totally should! And then tell us all about it, please!
Happy Traveling, All!
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